Our first-hand travel articles take your readers inside exciting destinations around the world.
on the Bounding
Baltic Sea
Regent Seven Seas Voyager
By Don Church & Tony Schillaci
Although we have featured many stories on how to get the most value for your travel
dollars this year, there are readers who go globe-trotting regardless of cost.
And for our money, the best countries to visit are those with a long-history of not only being
gay-tourist friendly, but have enacted laws to protect the rights of their gay, lesbian and
transgender citizens.
For example, Scandinavia and its neighbors accept our community as part and parcel of
mainstream life in these beautiful old-world countries bordering the magnificent Baltic
Sea.
They were among the first countries to offer same-gender civil union and marriage, and
gladly permit unlimited use of public areas for Pride celebrations that run for a week and
are regularly attended by hordes of non-gay individuals and families too. Pride is consider-
ed to be the same as any other national holiday by city and national officials.
And here’s an eye-opener: You won’t find slums in Stockholm, Helsinki, Copenhagen or near-
by Tallinn, Estonia, and everyone has access to health care, employment is high, and educa-
tion through college is free, in most cases, in these thriving free-market economies. A recent
cruise through the ‘Belles of the Baltic’ proved that members of our community can easily
make social contacts with gay and non-gays on land and on sea.
We flew on SAS airline (www.flysas.com/us ) to Stockholm (www.stockholmtown.com ) where
we stayed in the historic Hotel Stureplan in trendy Norrmalm area. (www.hotelstureplan.se)
While most of the gay activity in this Swedish capital is centered in Sodermalm and the Old
City (Gamla Stan), it’s fun to walk everywhere in this exciting town. Or purchase a Stockholm
Card for use on the metro, buses, ferries around this beautiful city built on fifteen islands.
Old City ( Gamla Stan), Stockholm, Sweden
One night we walked to the elegant Grand Hotel. It was recommended that we have its smorgas-
bord on the glass-enclosed terrace overlooking the water. If you do it right, you can spend
an entire evening feasting on endless platters of gourmet meats, Swedish meatballs, high-
quality herring, salmon, salads, desserts, local beer, and aquavit for about the price of a ticket
to an off-Broadway show. (www.grandhotel.se)
We took a recommended day trip by boat to the Swedish royal family’s summer residence,
Drottningholm Palace on an island of sprawling lawns, gardens and forest. It was pure 17th-
century regal splendor. It's theater is one of the oldest, continuously operating one in the world.
and accessible to us non-royals. It's opera productions are the jewel in its crown each
season.
Incidentally, the young, handsome prince Carl Phillip attended Kent School (CT-USA) and
the Rhode Island School of Design. If a prince can be referred to (respectfully) as a hottie….
he definitely is, and an international award-winning designer.
After two days of street walking - a royal treat in Stockholm - we boarded the Regent Seven
Seas Voyager and entered a world of sea-faring luxury. Our dazzling accommodations had
a large beautifully designed living room/bedroom, walk-in closet, Wi-Fi, balcony, and a
butler in formal dress! He expertly served us champagne as soon as we arrived.
The superior bed was king-size and had six pillows, as requested. There were complimentary
fresh flowers, fruit, and snacks, wines, liquors of choice, two robes, and both pair of
slippers were for men! Now that’s gay-friendly!
We nicknamed the ship's grand Compass Rose dining room “TGIF” or, “Thank God It’s Free”….
although not really free. All the unlimited food, wine, drinks, as well as tips, and room
service are included in the price of the cruise! In dollars, not Euros. And Regent arranges dis-
counted-air fare on SAS for its passengers.
The consistently outstanding food was magnificently presented and in portions that made it
possible to enjoy the six-course, Michelin-quality meals for a leisurely hour or two without
being rushed or stuffed.
Each night a different menu and two special wines were served with dinner by the most
attractive, hospitable and well-trained boys and girls on the seven seas! You can, of course,
have traditional cocktails, and everyone can enjoy after-dinner brandy and cordials.
Our fellow passengers were way beyond just being tolerant with two gay men, they were accept-
ing! Our feeling is that that Regent and its clients are not “don’t ask, don’t tell,” but genuinely
“don’t care!” people.
Most of the passengers drew us into conversation on land tours and during dinner, drinks
and the non-stop Broadway/Hollywood-quality entertainment. We were always treated
with total and absolute equality by the passengers, crew and staff. (www.rssc.com)
Our first port of call was magnificent medieval Tallinn, capitol Estonia. We rendezvoused with
Hanna-Liina Vosa, the region's top pop star. We previously met her this spring when she was
doing Happy Days at Goodspeed Opera House (CT-USA). (www.hannaliina.com)
We enjoyed a perfectly grilled chicken Caesar lunch at the Angel Café & GAYCLUB in the Old
Town with Siim Kumari, Hanna-Liina Vosa and Sirle Arro from tourism. It also has a trendy
disco downstairs catering to gays and celebrities. (www.clubangel.ee ) This is one of the coolest
clubs in Northern Europe.
Enchanting medieval Tallinn has three gay bars (one exclusively for women) and a sauna. It’s
an emerging gay destination on the Gulf of Finland. (www.portoftallinn.com)
Directly across the Baltic is beautiful and lively Helsinki, Finland. (www.visithelsinki.fi)
It’s a gorgeous town where we met Anna from the local tourist office, and the attractive and
bright Ilkka, who represented the gay community. He has an up and coming company - QLife
Traveller’s Guide (www.qlife.fi ). Soon Ilkka will offer weekly rentals in apartments owned by
local gays and lesbians. He’s our – your – man in Helsinki.
Visit the Pink Club while you’re in town, and be sure to have lunch or dinner at the Kappeli
Café/Restaurant with its sweeping tree-shaded dining terrace. Lunch was a typical Finnish
meal …delicious, especially the superb fresh-caught fish.
We next anchored for three nights on the Neva River in downtown St. Petersburg, Russia.
The main attractions in the region are Catherine’s Palace at Pushkin, Peterhof Palace and the
Hermitage/Winter Palace. This is the fabled city that was designed and built by Peter the Great.
One starry Russian night the ship’s entertainers hosted a party in the Grand Atrium. They
sang Beatles songs (Back In The USSR) and danced with the guests…and yes, the boy dancers
did dance with guys!
These same Broadway Babies had been entertaining us nightly with lavish productions in
the Constellation Theater. And the greatest dance team since Fred and Ginger, and current
winners of the World Ballroom Championships, Meagan and Andy wowed us all.
After Russia, and a quick stop in the walled medieval town of Visby, Sweden, the Regent's
Voyager docked at its final port, Copenhagen, Denmark. The ultimate cruise of a lifetime for us.
In Copenhagen, the Pride Parade awaited us, and our Hotel Square room allowed us to view the
event which ended in Town Hall Square below our balcony. www.thesquarecopenhagen.com.
We chatted with the ride guys in the red Speedos who led the parade representing “Safe Sex
is Here to Stay.”
Nyhven, Royal Copenhagen, Denmark
And another thrill of a lifetime was a magical day and late night at the world-renowned
Tivoli Gardens which was two blocks from our hotel. It held its first Tivoli Goes Gay to welcome
Pride Week. www.tivoli.dk
World OutGames 2009 will be in Copenhagen so book rooms ASAP. We recommend the Hotel
Square and the Kong (king) Frederick near gay bars (Oscars & Centralhjorget), the rail
station (airport express train), local bus terminal, and Tivoli Gardens just steps from Town
Hall Square, and ten minutes from the cruise ship docks. www.cruisecopenhagen.com
(www.visitcopenhagen.com) (www.nphotels.dk)
To get the most value for your dollars, stay at least three days in both wonderful, wonderful
Copenhagen and Stockholm. Consider it a bonus to have six ‘extra’ days overseas for the
same air fare before and after the Regent Voyager cruise. It will triple your pleasure and
triple your fun!
© Copyright 1999 - 2009. OUT&Travelin’ gay travel Syndicate. All rights reserved.
This travel story was originally published in the print and online editions of Metroline
New Magazine, Late October 2008, by permission of the copyright owners, which is
required in any and all print and electronic media, and other forms of reproduction. Contact
outandtravelin@snet.net
Cojo seemed disappointed at Clooney’s absence and returned to Milan, while we remained at © Copyright 1999 – 2009. OUT & Travelin’ Gay Travel Syndicate. All rights reserved. Published by permission in Metroline News Magazine,
Where in the World is George Clooney?
By Tony Schillaci and Don Church
Ah, Bella Italia! When thinking about this romantic country,
Alps –
east of the city.
International flights land in sophisticated
both on arrival and before flying home. The renowned La Scala Opera House with its first
rate theater museum, the nearby grand Gothic duomo and piazza, the most elegant,
glass-roofed mall in the world; and a large gay population make this a ‘must do’ before
cruising the lakes.
Treat yourself to the
It’s called the ‘resort in the city’ and has its own private park in the heart of town.
Tip: e-mail and ask for dates of projected low-occupancy and check-out special rates.
www.grandviscontipalace.com.
To ensure red-carpet treatment, contact Alessandra Bolzagni, a glamorous fashion diva.
She knowingly says “everyone in fashion is either gay or gay-friendly.” Her company
designs gay tours with tea/coffee or a cocktail; entry to the best gay sauna, ‘Milan happy
hours,’ aperitif in a gay bar, and dinner in a gay restaurant; and other adventures up to
2 a. m. (www.myspecialguest.com)
If you’re still wondering, “where in the world is George Clooney,” head north to Lake Como.
It’s easily accessible by rental car, taxi, car and driver, or motor coach as is
which can be reached by train on the Milan-Brescia-Verona-Venice line. Reserve seats on
www.RailEurope.com before leaving home!
George Clooney's Villa Oleandra, Lake Como Italy
The lakes of Garda, Iseo, and
lushly landscaped grounds, swimming in clear waters delicious regional food and wines;
and romantic atmosphere in a comfortable micro-climate. The shores and steep hillsides
are dotted with small elegant villas and large opulent palaces many of which have been
converted into four- and five-star inns, hotels, restaurants, and cafes.
However, the main topic of conversation is about the six homes that comprise the lake- side
compound of - as the Italians say - “the American actor George Clooney.” He is immensely
popular in the region because he’s using his celebrity to aid efforts to prevent any
destructive commercialization of the lakes.
We couldn’t find him right away, so some of us checked into the small, 4-star Hotel Villa
Capri on Lake Garda (www.villacapri.eu), and the rest went next door to the Grand Hotel
Fasano, including Entertainment Tonight’s exuberant fashion guru Cojo - aka Steven
Cojocaru. www.ghf.it.
He quickly became the designated celebrity of our high-spirited group, and teased us
that he would get us invited to George Clooney’s villa for drinks – after all, he had interviewed
the super star several times on TV.
As we waited impatiently, Cojo always joined us looking glamorous – and this personable
guy prefers to be called Steven, but he looks more like a Cojo, and has a complexion as
flawless as Mary Hart’s.
Our merrie band drove to the nearby city of
Garda; not far from lakes Iseo and
of inviting sidewalk cafes, and Dr. Giovanna Galli and Dr. Silvia Carli, two women who
operate a travel business called il Museo dei Viaggi: www.museoviaggi.it, www.booktravel.it, www.gaylesbian.it.
They know all the gay and gay-friendly welcoming spots in historic
have been happy to show us to the gay quarter or book us into a gay-friendly hotel, but our
group was settled lakeside and was ready to go to dinner at the four-star trattoria,
Ga Porteri. It was a cornucopia of high-quality-regional foods and wines, and maybe
an opportunity to spot the “American actor, George Clooney.”
The next day we got to the ancient town of
celebration, where everyone stays up all night and parties. Surely GC would be there;
everyone else in
Italian-style.
After a scrumptious dinner at the Grand Hotel di Como, (www.grandhoteldicomo.com) we
strolled out into the throngs of handsome men and beautiful women for our taste of
authentic la dolce vita!
The following morning, Cojo (in his low slung jeans, designer tee and iridescent blue shoes)
joined us as we boarded a motor launch to visit the villas of
complex, consisting of the Villa Margherita and the Villa Oleandra, the guide announced
“these are the homes of the American actor, Mr. George Clooney.”
Although we expected to stop for at least a cup of Italy's renowned strong coffee, we were
informed that Mr. Clooney’s boat was not tied to his dock, which meant that he wasn’t in
residence.
One hetero member of our entourage asked the Italian guide: “Is Clooney gay?” The guide
politely said, “Your American actor, Mr. George Clooney, can neither be categorized as gay,
nor do we Italians insist that he is straight. We do not put such labels on people.
Americans are obsessed with labels. Gay men want him to be gay, straight men and
women want him to be straight. He is a member of our
We think of him only as being extremely democratic.”
The local gossips report that GC often has dinner at the Villa D’Este and drinks at Harry’s
Bar, in the
marked it on our maps.
Next, 0ur classic wooden launch took us to the Villa Serbelloni for an aperitif, and
later to the palatial
with Italian operatic gusto on the grandest of pianos with exuberant renditions
of Lara’s Theme from Doctor Zhivago and the theme from The Godfather! We shouted “bravo!”
He clearly loved it. So did we.
That night, we had one of the best dinners possible at the hilltop Relais Mirabella
overlooking
and the young chef all received appreciative applause from us foodies and wine lovers.
Lake Garda. Some to enjoy a morning with Slow Drive, a company that puts you into vintage
sports cars and takes you on a daring dash around the lake and through its picturesque
villages. Some went to a cooking demonstration, and we and two of our favorite traveling
companions, Alex and Rose, went to a remarkable museum to see the excavated remains of
houses and streets long buried under Brescia. They are now housed in an addition to the
museum, and what a rush it was to look down at 2000 year-old frescoed wall, stone and
mosaic floors; village streets, plumbing and heating systems as effective as today’s.
Awesome in every way.
At dinner, we were regaled with stories about the fast and furious day in classic sports cars
as told by our witty friends Marie and Deborah. It sounded very James Bondish, but without
a need for a special license. Apparently a highlight of the day was the young, handsome
Federico Randazzo, owner of the cars. He told them that "if don’t know how to shift, find a
partner who does!" Yeah, yeah. Whatever, they thought. He was quickly renamed
Federico Ran-dazzle! www.slowdrive.it.
Lake Como, James Bond
film location in 2008
In the evening, we were invited to a cheese buffet at agri-tourism-winery-restaurant.
La Spia d’Italia. Every course was cheese, including ricotta ice cream for dessert! The only
thing not cheesy that evening was the host –dubbed “Handsome Man” by our friend, Veronica.
The “Handsome Man” was just one more pretty (and sexy) Italian face. Mamma Mia!
On our last day in Garda, it rained ferociously. Our hosts had invited us to a farewell dinner
at Antica Cascina San Zago. The moment we arrived, at about 7:30pm, the sun broke through
and we were treated to operatic arias and antipasto on a wonderful piazza.
Local dignitaries in their tri-colored sashes and finery joined us, and we felt like visiting
diplomats.
Cojo never returned, and Mr. Clooney, that mysterious democrat, continued to elude us. But
the warmth of the Italian people, the beauty of the lakes, the charm and dignity of the cities
and the food and wine made us welcome enough to decide that maybe next year
(if George is not away filming Ocean’s 75) we’ll jump on an Alitalia flight and return
again to the micro-climate of Lakes Garda, Como, and Iseo, and we just might have better
luck Spotting George Clooney!
© Copyright 1999 - 2098. OUT&Travelin’ Gay Travel Syndicate. All rights reserved.
